Interview: João Cura of Porto's Almeja restaurant on Portuguese Dining & Pandemic Pivoting
Almeja is a contemporary central Porto eatery run by couple João and Sofia. Run by a couple; João as head chef and Sofia as room manager, the restaurant focuses on presenting food that is seasonal, delicious, and geographically Portuguese.
Words by George Maguire
Tell us a bit about yourself?
João: My name is João Cura, I’m currently the Head Chef and co-owner with my wife and parents-in-law of Almeja Restaurant in Porto, Portugal.
Please summarise Almeja to a potential diner? What does Almeja add to Porto’s hospitality line-up?
Almeja is a “casual” fine-dining bistro-style restaurant. We offer seasonal, technical and produce-oriented cooking, influenced by life experiences, travels and memories. We are as local as we can be, without compromising the flavour, the quality, and supportive as we can be of our history and heritage. We aim to make you feel welcomed, like if you are at home and really get you excited about the way we cook, more so than the dishes we cook.
Could you share 3 core values of Almeja? Are these values are reflected in the people you hire?
Teamwork, respect and passion. And that of course reflects on how we work, who we work with and who wants to visit us. If you do what you love, and inspire people to do the same while working, you feel it in the atmosphere, in the products we use, in the way we talk about the dishes, in how we welcome you!
What’s it like running a bistro with your partner? Does it make the experience stronger? Are there difficult moments?
Running the restaurant with Sofia has been a learning process. On the one hand, you know that your partner has the same standards as you so you know you can fully trust her. On the other hand, it can bring some more tension to the relationship itself.
Running a business as a family, you have to learn how to “turn off the restaurant chip”, and how to have time for yourself and your family. To take a break.
How has trading been over the past two years? Has Almeja pivoted during the pandemic to make up for lost revenue? Were you reliant on tourist trade?
During these last two years, we were constantly opening and closing due to government policies. As for surviving, we created a brand called “Almeja em Casa”, with frozen ready to cook family meals such as pies, puffed pastry pies, meatballs with tomato sauce, and curries. That way we managed to keep some income that allowed us to keep pushing during these difficult times.
The tourist trade has a massive impact in our city and of course, we rely on them as well, but we also have a good rate of local regulars customers that helped us levelling things up.
Have there been any unexpected upsides or key learnings from the pandemic?
Absolutely! “Mens sana in corpore sano” which translates to the importance of having your mental health in order - was the first key learning.
We also restructured some business aspects to have a more efficient service and to reduce the working hours so that we - as a team and personally - have more time to ourselves.
How has ingredient sourcing been affected in Portugal? Did you have a buffer from this due to your choice to source predominately locally?
Our ingredient sourcing has not been affected so far. The only issues are the constant price increase of the products due to covid related problems, the gas prices, and the war in Ukraine… But of course, relying mainly on local products and smaller farmers helped us get through these difficult times.
What’s been the best investment that you have made in the business recently?
A team bonding trip to Paris which was much needed after almost two years of covid! Fresh air, new foods, new experiences… A small reminder of “la joie de vivre”! Investing in your team will always be the best investment you can make.
What non-food-related aspects of the eatery are you looking to maximise in the future?
We are going to renovate the décor a little and make a winter garden in our terrace area complete with the installation of a fireplace. We want to bring more cosiness to our guests, have more space between tables, and a larger service area.
What did you learn and apply to Almeja from the world of private dinner/ dining cooking?
I learned to be creative, super organized, practical and resourceful. Sometimes you find yourself in spaces without the ideal conditions and you have to go along with it.
Favourite spot to visit for a meal or a drink in Porto?
I think it depends on your mood... And with a baby, it tends to be difficult to enjoy the city as much but I can name a few for food and drink; Apego, Fava Tonka, Elemento, O Paparico, Adega de São Nicolau, Musa das Virtudes, The Royal Cocktail Club, and Torto.
What would you say to someone looking to open a restaurant on the West Coast of Portugal? Opportunities? Things to avoid?
Don´t do it! Just kidding… There will always be good opportunities for quality ingredients, good cooking, and proper welcoming. Avoid copying others, just be yourself and put your soul into it, good things will come if you combine that with hard work and commitment.
